SUBSCRIPTIONS.htm

PHASE 2

After the base superstructure, or frame, is in place the track base can be laid. The only wood to use, in my view, is marine ply. It's expensive but a wonderful medium to handle. It's very, very tough and built to last the test of time under water. Perfect for the rigours of the garden and exceptionally strong. I got my local wood supplier to source it for me and to saw, with his precision saw, the sheets into 15cms strips. It would take you forever to saw it by hand or even using a rotary Black & Decker. Thus the 1cm x 15cm strips were fixed onto the frame using aluminium screws and creating a very strong 'box' structure. Before they were fixed of course four coats of paint were applied to both sides and, importantly, the ends and sides.

Far Left. Basic trackwork and roofing felt in place on the loop. I will trim the excess felt away similar to that in the middle of the picture. Left. The final run up to the top loop.

Far left. Signals in place waiting to receive power. Left. The start of refining the track work and ballast. I am starting to build layers of brown paint mixed with garden soil. It takes a time and should look okay when finished. The example here shows only one layer applied.

The ballast was created by using roofing felt. Again it was sourced locally, but watch out as they are of varying textures. I choose one which was as near to proper ballast as I could find - it looks about right and also helps to protect the wooden base.

Fixing can be done in two ways. A vile sticky, tar-like glue spread using a spatula, or my preferred method of melting it into place. Practice this before you attempt the real thing as it is easy to overheat the felt and end with a sticky mess. Cut the felt into the required width - about 11cms - and roll it up. Carefully using a blow torch melt the underside at one end until it starts to bubble slightly. Press it into position and gradually unroll the rest melting the surface towards you. Best to only do this in short length of about 4ft - after the heating is complete go back over the surface carefully tapping it down. A great finish and doesn't come up!

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My Way! Planning and Design Construction Phase 1 Construction Phase 3 Electrification Couplings Bridge Photos		The 'Brighton' races downhill with a 10 coach train. The loose cables hanging down are those ready to wire in the signals. PHASE 2 After the base superstructure, or frame, is in place the track base can be laid. The only wood to use, in my view, is marine ply. It's expensive but a wonderful medium to handle. It's very, very tough and built to last the test of time under water. Perfect for the rigours of the garden and exceptionally strong. I got my local wood supplier to source it for me and to saw, with his precision saw, the sheets into 15cms strips. It would take you forever to saw it by hand or even using a rotary Black & Decker. Thus the 1cm x 15cm strips were fixed onto the frame using aluminium screws and creating a very strong 'box' structure. Before they were fixed of course four coats of paint were applied to both sides and, importantly, the ends and sides. Far Left. Basic trackwork and roofing felt in place on the loop. I will trim the excess felt away similar to that in the middle of the picture. Left. The final run up to the top loop. Far left. Signals in place waiting to receive power. Left. The start of refining the track work and ballast. I am starting to build layers of brown paint mixed with garden soil. It takes a time and should look okay when finished. The example here shows only one layer applied. The ballast was created by using roofing felt. Again it was sourced locally, but watch out as they are of varying textures. I choose one which was as near to proper ballast as I could find - it looks about right and also helps to protect the wooden base. Fixing can be done in two ways. A vile sticky, tar-like glue spread using a spatula, or my preferred method of melting it into place. Practice this before you attempt the real thing as it is easy to overheat the felt and end with a sticky mess. Cut the felt into the required width - about 11cms - and roll it up. Carefully using a blow torch melt the underside at one end until it starts to bubble slightly. Press it into position and gradually unroll the rest melting the surface towards you. Best to only do this in short length of about 4ft - after the heating is complete go back over the surface carefully tapping it down. A great finish and doesn't come up!